Toledo - Early in the morning, I cross the roundabout that separates me from the Bisagra Gate, focusing on its Triumphal Arch, designed by Covarrubias to glorify Charles V and Philip II. Yet, my attention is drawn mainly to the traffic, which, on this hot August morning in the plateau city of Toledo, is as intense as ever. I pass through the Gate of the Sun and walk along the edge of the Toledo Jewish Quarter, entering through the Corral de la Campana to wander the streets until I reach Zocodover Square