Jaen - Moorish Jaén, Christian Jaén... And yes, also Jewish Jaén. I need three hundred kilometers and just over three hours by car from Madrid to reach the heart of this old Andalusian city, visible from any point thanks to its flagship, the grand Cathedral envisioned by the renowned architect Andrés de Vandelvira. My appointment with Eva María, the official guide of Jaén, is set in Constitution Square, the nerve center of the city